2021 Old Garden Mourvèdre

Reviews

"The fat and fur, salt and smoke from a poacher's fire. A dark earthy seam. Sinewy flesh melts across the mid-palate and a fine grained grit pulls the wine through a sustained finish suggesting cellaring will be rewarded. One of the most significant mourvèdre wines on the planet. 98 Points." - Nick Ryan, The Australian

"The world’s oldest Mourvèdre vines, planted in 1853 in the Old Garden Vineyard, provide us with something a bit special. There are just eight rows yielding the grapes, so perhaps best not to hesitate. Grab what you can, as soon as you can. 85% whole bunches used here, 30 days in vat then 18 months maturation in new French oak barriques from a range of forests. Dark magenta in colour, the nose exhibits notes of chocolate, coffee beans, florals, violets, warm earth and really good Cuban cigars. Early evidence of complexity emerging, the wine has focus with bright acidity running the length. The wine maintains its intensity for the full journey and what length it really does offer. A cracking wine which will surely present well for at least fifteen to twenty years. 97 Points." - Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot

"This vineyard is believed to have the world’s oldest Mourvèdre vines, dating back to 1853, before phylloxera whipped out the vineyards of France. This was 85% whole bunch fermented before spending 18 months in new French oak barriques. That’s a lot of new oak, but you wouldn’t know it. The fruit has simply gobbled it up creating a perfectly harmonised palate and beautifully perfumed aromas. Palate has a slightly grainy feel with the intense red fruits and dried herb characters immediately engaging. Outstanding. 97 Points." - Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot

"It's stylish and alluring on the nose, showing dark fruit intensity, dried herb, clove, cedar and warm spice aromas. The palate is equally satisfying with multi-layered mouthfeel combined with loads of polished tannins, making it soothing and sturdy at the same time. Splendidly harmonious and complex with an impressively long, expansive finish. At its best: 2025 to 2039. 96 Points." - Sam Kim, Wine Orbit

"The Old Garden vineyard planted in 1853 is renowned as the oldest Mourvèdre vineyard on the planet. This vintage sees 85% whole bunches in the ferment and held in the vat for 30 days.18 months maturation in new French oak barriques. Beguiling and potent aromas with signature dried paper over potpourri, raisin tea cake spice, fruits of dark cherry and blueberry and chocolate wafer, all tempered with a fresh soil and black tea earthiness. Potent on the palate, also. Umami, savoury qualities drape over the layers of rippling dark cherry fruit. Bound with tension, this presents a very linear projection of structure with incredibly fine and ripe tannins showing their hand late in the piece. Darkly brooding and delicious. 96 Points." - Regan Drew, Wine Pilot

"A special wine and no mere curio, Old Garden Vineyard is home to what is believed to be the world’s oldest Mourvèdre vines, planted in 1853. It’s a treat to taste. Lovely lifted florals and intense red fruit aromas invade the glass. With 18 months spent in new French oak barriques, the role of oak can’t be denied. It brings a charry smoky cedary influence, joining black cherry, plum, baking spices and a delightful pepperiness to the warm-hearted palate. Throughout, there is an under-current of meaty-bacon-smoked charcuterie which tantalises. Day two, it was possibly even in better form. 96 Points." - Jeni Port, Wine Pilot

"Planted in 1853, the original, ungrafted vines producing the Hewitson Old Garden Mourvèdre are believed to be the oldest on the planet. In the 2021 vintage a fruits-of-the-forest fragrance abounds: raspberries, blueberries and blackberries with red plums and violets, complimented by French barrique aromas of mocha, vanilla, clove and cedar alongside savoury sanguine and dried leaf notes. It’s a full-bodied wine, but with medium alcohol at 13.5% has elegance too. There is freshness with acidity, dusty but firm tannins and a long finish – a structure crying for some charry BBQ goodness. Youthful and fruitful, drinking well now and will certainly last the distance for 15+ years. 96 Points." - Melissa Moore, Wine Pilot

"Deep ruby and purple colours. Blood plum, vanilla bean and bresaola aromatics. Rich and ripe plum fruits fill the mouth with savoury layers of dusty earth and boudin noir. Tannins work hard to drive from the background and do it successfully, so it glides with power and focus to a very long and feathering finish. 95 Points." - Stuart Knox, The Real Review

"Old vines servicing full-weighted extract, impact and a welcome savoriness. Cherry liqueur, menthol, smoked meats, camphor and polished leather. The tannins, the latticework of sanity and structure, constrain a tip into excess. I like this wine. The old vine sourcing, formidable. Yet the oak is varnishy and sweet. Local cooperage? I am scoring this with the benefit of the doubt. Best after 2026. 93 Points." - Ned Goodwin MW, JamesSuckling

"Planted 1853, these are the oldest Mourvèdre vines on planet, ungrafted, pre phylloxera vines dry farmed by the same family, where every vine is the original 1853 planting. That is unbelievable!!! So much history in your glass. This is one intense Mourvèdre, a seriously solid wine with dense mulberry and blackberry fruit that is almost impenetrable. A considerable amount of whole bunch at 85%, combined with licks of oak around the edges allows the wine to unfurl in the glass. Reminded me of Chinese salted plum, the tang with sweetness. Vanilla oak gives sweet oak tannins that are ripe but chewy so need time to integrate. The wine is juicy, plush and flavoursome but a king-size mouthful, needing time. 92 Points." - Annette Lacey MW, Wine Pilot