Hewitson Wines

Wine List - With John Fordham

Dean Hewitson has delved into some of the oldest vineyard sites in SA and has fashioned a line-up of wines of incredible appeal.

While the vineyards are spread throughout the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills, it's in an old dairy factory in downtown Adelaide that this master technician weaves his special brand of magic.

There's a pronounced family flavour in brand Hewitson. The 2004 LuLu Sauvignon Blanc from the Adelaide Hills is named after Dean's wife, Louise. Six-year-old daughter Harriet inspired the 2004 Miss Harry grenache-mourvedre-shiraz ($22) from the Barossa Valley, and sons Ned,12, and Henry, 9, get a guernsey with the Barossa Valley-sourced 2004 Ned & Henry's Shiraz ($25).

Finally, the 2003 Mad Hatter Shiraz ($50), a rip-roaring wine from McLaren Vale, has links with the winemaker himself. "Growing up, a mate called me Hatter, as in Mad Hatter," explained Hewitson. Add Hewitson's 2005 Mermaids Muscadelle ($15), 2004 Eden Valley Riesling ($15) and 2003 Barossa Valley Old Garden Mourvedre ($50) and you have one classy portfolio.

In preparation for the launch of his eponymous label in 1998, Hewitson had a 10-year stint with Petaluma and vintage experience in France, California and Washington. In the short time the label's been around it's won widespread praise. Of course, with his entire family having a share in the action, the winemaker has a certain responsibility to deliver the goods.

John Fordham, The Sunday Telegraph

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